Visit to Happo-en

After having done a lot of rather mundane things in Tokyo, many involving a visit to this or that store, which were not really worth posting about, we finally indulged ourselves with a visit to a Japanese garden. Unlike Kyoto, the choice in Tokyo is not so varied and to most of the well-known gardens we had been several times before in the past. But there is one we had never been to: Happo-en, near Meguro. Happo-en is actually a very fancy wedding venue, but their large and beautiful garden is open to the public.

Entrance to Happo-en

Happy Year of the Mouse

Unsurprisingly, we have again spent New Year in Japan. 2020 is the year of the rat or mouse in the Chinese zodiac. While this time, I went about getting our traditional tenugui well in advance, I was sorely disappointed: the 12-year cycle having finished, the old design had been discontinued and a new design is on sale. I was missing only three years of the series!!! Since I couldn’t well go without, I got the new design anyway. So Happy New Year to everyone!

Flower-viewing at Mimurotoji

On our final sightseeing outing in Kyoto, we went back to the nearby tea-growing town of Uji. We were headed for Mimurotoji, a temple famous for its flower gardens. Mimurotoji is located at the Northern edge of town, nestled at the foot of the surrounding lush green hills. The location is lovely: the whole hillside was fragrant and filled with birdsong. And it was a great moment to visit, as now is the season of the ajisai, the hydrangea bloom.

Nature-escape to Kurama

While Kyoto is surrounded by wooded hills and the need of getting away from it all is not as pressing as in the concrete-desert of the Kanto plain, it’s still nice to spend a few hours surrounded by nothing but majestic Japanese cedar trees. Kurama, just a 40 minutes train ride from central Kyoto to the north, is just such a getaway. At Kurama station, the visitor is greeted by a chorus of wind bells hung under the roof. Kurama itself is a one-street town with the station at one end and Kurama Onsen, a hot spring ryokan at the other. Its real attraction is Kurama-dera, an extended temple complex reaching up Mt. Kurama.

Looking up to Niomon

Kyoto Gardens: Shosei-en

Apart from re-visiting our favorites, there are still many places in Kyoto we haven’t seen. One of them was Shosei-en, the detached garden of Higashi Hongan-ji near Kyoto Station. It’s a beautifully landscaped garden with several interesting buildings and bridges, amounting to “13 views”. In its style it reminded me somewhat of Tokyo’s Korakuen. Unlike many of Kyoto’s temple gardens which are nestled in the foothills of the surrounding wooded mountains, Shosei-en can’t hide its very urban location. Tall buildings are visible all around it.

Shinsetsu-kyo

Back in Kyoto

Matcha and warabimochi

It’s been a week now that we’ve been back in Kyoto (as usual, for work). Apart from enjoying the food and going to our favorite shops to stock up on Japanese essentials, we’ve not yet had the chance to do many touristic things. But we’ve walked the philosopher’s walk yet another time, which is always pleasurable. So far, we’ve been relatively lucky with the weather, only one day of rain… let’s hope the weather holds up another bit, we still have one more week to go!

Along the philosopher’s walk

Day Trip to Kawagoe

Kurazukuri warehouses with some appropriately dressed gentlemen in front

Having another free weekend in the Kanto area, we decided to finally visit Kawagoe, a town with many preserved kurazukuri warehouses from the Edo period, also known as Koedo (little Edo). Kawagoe, located in Saitama prefecture Northeast of Tokyo had been on our radar for a while, but we had never actually made it there. From Kawagoe station (Hon-kawagoe is a little nearer), it’s about 1km walk along a pedestrian shopping street to the Kurazukuri zone of the historical buildings.

Toki no kane – Kawagoe’s signature bell tower

Visit to Chishakuin [Picture Book]

Kon-do (central hall) seen from behind

In our quest to see new sights in Kyoto, we decided to visit Chishakuin, the headquarters of the Chisan School of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, located at the height of Shichijo, at the foot of Higashiyama. Being somewhat off the beaten track, it was wonderfully quiet and peaceful there (and as often, not really any worse than the completely overrun main sights). Behind the majestic Kon-do, smaller temple halls are nestled in the wooded foothills of Higashiyama. A special attraction is however its scenic garden.

Scenic garden at Chishakuin

Early Morning at Kiyomizudera

Since we’re supposed to be working and it gets dark early, the only moment to squeeze in some sightseeing for us is the early morning. Kiyomizudera, unlike most other temples (which open at 9), opens already at 6am, so it’s a recurring destination for us. Another perk of showing up in the morning is that the place is empty, and we were able to just see the sun rise over Higashiyama.

In Kyoto

Along Kamogawa, looking North

As always, we are also spending some time in Kyoto. The winter weather being what it is, we’ve had some sunshine, but also some cloudy weather. But we try to make the best of it, trying not to get too cold visiting temples in our socks and always buying too many cute things when we enter shops to warm up.

Hojo Garden at Chion-in